| Topic: Help with TCT and Yellowstone NP itinerary, Backpacking novice could use some help | < Next Oldest | Next Newest > |
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apachemd 
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Posted on: Mar. 01 2013, 1:02 pm |
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Three buddies and I, all males, reasonably good shape in our mid 30's, have a trip to Grand Teton and Yellowstone planned for the first week of July. We are backpacking and national park novices, and this is all of our first times to this part of the country. As such, although we have an itinerary at this point, it is still changeable as needed, and I would really appreciate the more experienced members who are familiar with the area's input on it.
Sat, 6/29 - all arrive at JAC airport, stay in Jackson (or should we stay in Teton Village?)
Sun, 6/30 - do self-arrest course with Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, stay in Jackson vs. Teton Village
Mon 7/1 - Thurs 7/4 - TCT from Aerial tram->Death Canyon Shelf->South Fork Cascade->Upper Paintbrush->Jenny Lake
Thurs 7/4 evening - fireworks in Jackson, drive, night at Canyon Lodge in Yellowstone
Fri 7/5 - day hike/trip in Yellowstone (suggestion?), night at either West Yellowstone or Gardiner hotel -- cannot decide which one - ??
Sat 7/6 - day hike/trip in Yellowstone (suggestion?), night at Grant Village
Sun 7/7 morning - fly out of JAC
Moving around to a different hotel every night is not ideal, but there is no availability at one place for all 3 nights. And I guess the positive is that we'll be near 3 different areas of the large Yellowstone.
I would really appreciate y'all's input on the above. Thanks a lot!
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| Post Number: 2
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hikerjer
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Posted on: Mar. 01 2013, 3:25 pm |
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Rather than staying at a motel, since you have camping equipment - at least I assume you do since you're backpacing - why not just camp in one of the park's regular campgrounds. Way cheaper. Just make sure you get there early in the morning before all the sites are taken. Just a suggestion. I've traveled to Yellowstone a bajillion times and have yet to stay in a hotel./motel. Campgrounds are fine for me.
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"Too often I have met men who boast only of how many miles they've traveled and not of what they've seen." - Louis L'Amour
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| Post Number: 3
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botanist
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Posted on: Mar. 01 2013, 4:17 pm |
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I did the teton crest trail years ago and loved it. You are doing right by taking the tram, we did the same. It is nice to gain elevation the easy way and then gradually lose elevation to until you get to the road.
We had bear problems our first day in the Tetons. While pumping water, a bear and two cubs ransacked our campsite including ripping open our tent and my sleeping bag. We used bear canisters (which were outside of the tent) so she didn't get anything but just a story to encourage you to use best bear practices.
Only potential glitch I see is you are planning on camping in Yellowstone and then getting up and flying out of Jackson Hole in the same day. That section of road can be really slow in the summer. Give yourself plenty of time to make your flight.
Have a great trip!
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| Post Number: 4
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RobinHood
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Posted on: Mar. 01 2013, 5:25 pm |
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Assuming you havent been to Jackson before, you should stay there your first night, yall would probably enjoy it.
Why are you taking the self arrest class? And are you planning to spend the whole day doing that?
Its a long drive from jackson to yellowstone, atleast an hour to the yellowstone border, and you still have a ways to go to any touristy stops. Keep that in mind too for your trip back to the airport.
I too would just camp if your already doing that, way easier than bouncing around hotels each night. Your gonna spend a lot of time in the car. Although yellowstone is usually explored easier with a car, especially if its your first time there.
And I wouldnt plan on watching fireworks in Jackson, then trying to drive to canyon village, thats about a 2.5/3 hour drive, even at night, park speed limit is 45 at most. Just stay in Jackson, drive up in the morning
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The vast majority of every species that has ever lived on Earth is now extinct. To think that humans can avoid the fate of every other creature is arrogant. Like all life on Earth, our time is limited.
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| Post Number: 5
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RobinHood
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Posted on: Mar. 01 2013, 5:49 pm |
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As for dayhiking suggestions for yellowstone, I would say dont dayhike. Assuming you've never been to yellowstone before, spend your time there driving around the park, and stopping everytime you see something cool. You wont run out of things to do in your few days. You will see a lot more doing it this way. Its not like your going to be missing some great view or wildlife by not dayhiking.
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The vast majority of every species that has ever lived on Earth is now extinct. To think that humans can avoid the fate of every other creature is arrogant. Like all life on Earth, our time is limited.
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| Post Number: 6
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hikerjer
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Posted on: Mar. 01 2013, 8:30 pm |
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Just a suggestion for a short hike. Sounds like you might be kind of rushed. If you're looking for a short but very nice day hike in Yellowstone, I would suggest the one mile hike down to the suspension bridge over the Black Canyon of the Yellowstone. Pretty spectacular view of the canyon with great picnic spots on either side of the bridge. Easy hike down and up that you can fit into a few hours. Big payback for a little effort. The trailhead is along the northern road at the Hellroading trail head. Just a suggestion.
Have a great time.
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"Too often I have met men who boast only of how many miles they've traveled and not of what they've seen." - Louis L'Amour
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| Post Number: 7
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double cabin
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Posted on: Mar. 02 2013, 11:40 am |
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As early as you are going you need that self arrest course if you are going to go across Paintbrush Divide. Usually that requires an Ice axe until the 10th of July if not later, but its shaping up to be another early Spring. In 2011 you would have had trouble negotiating Hurricane let alone Paintbrush. You might consider skipping Paintbrush, going down Avalanche or Cascade Canyon and give yourself another dayhiking/ sightseeing day.
If you do stay in hotels as someone that works for two hotels and a property management/booking company here in Jackson BOOK EARLY. Rates can vary dramatically.
The Grand Teton Climbers Ranch is an awesome place, a hostel with plywood bunks in a dozen cabins. Although only 15 minutes or so from the Airport it is INCREDIBLE. There is no guarantee you could get your own cabin/room for your group, but if you call earlier in June they just might try and accommodate you. Much cheaper than hotels, about 22 bucks a night for non-AAC members, and instead of being right off the pavement in town you're right at the base of the Grand with jaw dropping/neck wrenching views with every step. A walk in the evening often has you sharing the trail with Balckies, moose, etc. Some of the finest dayhiking and backpacking in the world starts right at your cabin door.
I think everyone that dismisses the TCT on the south end makes a huge mistake. I think the south end is by far the best wildlife part of the "Complete" Crest Trail. Nonetheless if your time is limited taking the tram up can be an asset, but do not think of it being a means of dealing with elevation/acclimation. In fact taking the tram up will handicap certain hikers.
I agree that driving to Canyon at night is a big mistake. I'd get back to the Climbers Ranch or message me for dispersed vehicle camping opportunities most people fly on by. The problem is, you've picked one of the most popular times, so have options.
If you go to Yellowstone I'd get up Oh dark thirty, hit Old Faithfull at Sunrise, then head for Canyon on the inner loop. IMO the waterfalls are Yellowstone's greatest glories, not the thermal features, but that's just me. I think the best dayhike in the park is Avalanche Peak, and if you saved Old Faithfull for another time you could still see many thermal features, the Canyon/Falls, and dayhike one of the greatest views in all of the Rockies and beyond.
If you want to do Yellowstone any semblance of justice SAVE it for another time. Stay at the Climbers Ranch, dayhike Ampitheatre and Surprise right out your door, have an awesome final dinner at Dornan's or Signal Mt. Lodge and head for Oxbow bend at Dusk. Two Grizzly families were still frequenting the Oxbow in that time frame in 2012.
There's so much to do, but the best thing to do is to not try and do too much for those of us willing to get some distance from the Asphalt and gravel find the greatest treasures in not hurrying across the countryside. If I can help yuo don't hesitate to message me. Otherwise thanks for spending your vacation dollars in Wyoming and have a great time.
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We have nothing to fear but an industry of fear...and man skirts.
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| Post Number: 8
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Eagle48
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Posted on: Mar. 04 2013, 10:15 am |
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Rather than taking the tram, start your hike out heading up Death Canyon. My father and I did that back in 2011 at the end of August and still could have used Ice Axes at Paintbrush, but it was a record snow year, so who knows what it'll be like for you.
Campsites were Death Canyon Shelf, Sunset Lake (which we managed to have to ourselves), North Fork Cascade at the end of the camping zone, and then out over Paintbrush and walking by Holly Lake.
For Yellowstone, like others have stated, making it from Jackson to Canyon after fireworks could be a very late night, plus the danger of all the wildlife on the roads during the night. One thing I would suggest you do while in yellowstone, is the cookout ride at Roosevelt Lodge, book it ASAP. You'll have the choice of either a two hour horseback ride, one hour ride or taking the wagons to the cookout where you'll have an all you can eat steak dinner in beautiful Paradise Valley.
Aside from that, driving the roads and seeing the sights is a good idea, your short time in the park will make it tough to do much else.
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I live to be outdoors.
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| Post Number: 9
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apachemd
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Posted on: Mar. 04 2013, 1:52 pm |
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(RobinHood @ Mar. 01 2013, 5:25 pm)
QUOTE Why are you taking the self arrest class? And are you planning to spend the whole day doing that?
Although yellowstone is usually explored easier with a car, especially if its your first time there.
And I wouldnt plan on watching fireworks in Jackson, then trying to drive to canyon village, thats about a 2.5/3 hour drive, even at night, park speed limit is 45 at most. Just stay in Jackson, drive up in the morning
Yes I was told by the ranger with whom I booked the permits that she strongly recommends that for the time of year we are going if we don't already possess those skills (we don't). And yes the JHMC guy I spoke to said it's a whole day thing.
Very good input. If that's the case then maybe we should just book 3 consecutive nights at a still available out-of-the-park hotel/motel? If so which city would y'all recommend for that -- West Yellowstone, Gardiner, or something further south nearer to Jackson? If you had to pick one out-of-park hub for a daily hub-and-spoke driving around Yellowstone plan?
Brilliant. We would be tired just having finished the TCT so that makes sense.
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apachemd
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Posted on: Mar. 04 2013, 2:54 pm |
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For 7/4-7/7, what about staying at a Moran, WY hotel/motel? It is near Jackson so driving there on 7/4 evening should be ok. And it is <1 hour from Yellowstone's south entrance, so it seems like it could serve a decent hub for day trips to Yellowstone on 7/5 and 7/6. Thoughts?
Or would Gardiner or West Yellowstone be better for this purpose?
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| Post Number: 16
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RobinHood
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Posted on: Mar. 04 2013, 9:57 pm |
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(apachemd @ Mar. 04 2013, 2:54 pm)
QUOTE For 7/4-7/7, what about staying at a Moran, WY hotel/motel? It is near Jackson so driving there on 7/4 evening should be ok. And it is <1 hour from Yellowstone's south entrance, so it seems like it could serve a decent hub for day trips to Yellowstone on 7/5 and 7/6. Thoughts?
Or would Gardiner or West Yellowstone be better for this purpose?
Have you looked into staying at Flagg Ranch, Inbetween the 2 parks? That would be a good option for you.
I dont think you want to stay anywhere down near jackson while visiting yellowstone each day, you'll understand this more when your there. Since your not camping, you might be better served staying at different lodges/hotels each night. Just make sure your last nights stay is back down south, so you can get to your flight. And if you can get rooms at lodges in the park, stay there over out of the park locations. If your going to spend a night out of the park, shoot for up near cooke city/silver gate. The NE part of yellowstone is beautiful. You could spend one evening in lamar valley watching wildlife, stay in cooke city, then drive back down south the next day.
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The vast majority of every species that has ever lived on Earth is now extinct. To think that humans can avoid the fate of every other creature is arrogant. Like all life on Earth, our time is limited.
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| Post Number: 17
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RobinHood
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Posted on: Mar. 04 2013, 10:55 pm |
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I also second the avalanche peak hike suggestion for yellowstone. Its a leg burner, but not too long, and great views of yellowstone lake, the absorkas, and event the tetons. Great hike
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The vast majority of every species that has ever lived on Earth is now extinct. To think that humans can avoid the fate of every other creature is arrogant. Like all life on Earth, our time is limited.
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| Post Number: 19
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apachemd
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Posted on: Apr. 02 2013, 1:14 pm |
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We have "Backpacker's pantry" food for breakfast and dinner, but what do overnight backpackers eat for lunch?
(For the TCT, do we need to bring bear canisters? Or are they provided when we pick up our permit? Or can we hang our food?) -- Found out answer to this, they provide bear canisters when we pick up our permit.
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| Post Number: 20
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RobinHood
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Posted on: Apr. 06 2013, 1:11 am |
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(apachemd @ Apr. 02 2013, 1:14 pm)
QUOTE We have "Backpacker's pantry" food for breakfast and dinner, but what do overnight backpackers eat for lunch?
(For the TCT, do we need to bring bear canisters? Or are they provided when we pick up our permit? Or can we hang our food?) -- Found out answer to this, they provide bear canisters when we pick up our permit.
That varies vastly from person to person. Because you'll be in the tetons, and have to use a canister, you'll have to be careful with all your food choices to make sure they fit inside the canister.
Most people im used to hiking with don't really bring "lunch" as much as snacks. Protein Bars, Granola bars, Dried fruits and nuts, trail mix, beef jerky are some great options. Most like quick foods.
A tip for using the bear canister. rather than using ziplock bags, just dump everything into the canister. For example, rather than carry granola cereal in a ziplock back inside the canister, I just dump it into the canister on top of everything else in there. It fills up the empty spaces, and makes for more room
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The vast majority of every species that has ever lived on Earth is now extinct. To think that humans can avoid the fate of every other creature is arrogant. Like all life on Earth, our time is limited.
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