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Topic: Trip Report, Beartooths< Next Oldest | Next Newest >
 Post Number: 1
NickHowes Search for posts by this member.

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PostIcon Posted on: Sep. 13 2013, 3:51 pm  Skip to the next post in this topic. Ignore posts   QUOTE

September 2013 trip through the Beartooths
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hikerjer Search for posts by this member.

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PostIcon Posted on: Sep. 13 2013, 4:23 pm Skip to the previous post in this topic. Skip to the next post in this topic. Ignore posts   QUOTE

Great report Nick.  I'm quite familiar with your route -it's a great one - having camped at several of the sites you showed. However, I've never climbed Granite up that route.  Couple of questions:  how difficult did you find the route and how long did the actual climb take?  Bit of an accomplishment - climbing Granite solo.  Well done.

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"Too often I have met men who boast only of how many miles they've traveled and not of what they've seen."  -  Louis L'Amour
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PostIcon Posted on: Sep. 13 2013, 4:52 pm Skip to the previous post in this topic. Skip to the next post in this topic. Ignore posts   QUOTE

Looks like a fantastic trip, Nick.
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NickHowes Search for posts by this member.

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PostIcon Posted on: Sep. 13 2013, 5:08 pm Skip to the previous post in this topic. Skip to the next post in this topic. Ignore posts   QUOTE


(hikerjer @ Sep. 13 2013, 2:23 pm)
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I've never climbed Granite up that route.  Couple of questions:  how difficult did you find the route and how long did the actual climb take?

Hi Jerry,

I found the climb pretty easy - YDS class 3 with maybe a bit of class 4.

It took 1h 50m from when I started climbing up from the talus to reach the summit.

I actually think climbing it solo might be a bit safer because the biggest danger is probably rockfall from other climbers.  Doing it early in the day and solo meant that no one else was on the mountain.

All the best, Nick
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PostIcon Posted on: Sep. 13 2013, 5:59 pm Skip to the previous post in this topic. Skip to the next post in this topic. Ignore posts   QUOTE

Nick,

Thanks. Like Jer I've been aware of that southwest route, curious. I remember being on Villard, using a monocular to eyeball that face.

Did I spot a BD Whippet (ski pole "ice axe") in your hand in the first picture?

If so, any issues with hiking with it? I'm wondering how it compares to hauling a Camp Nanotech ice axe (aluminum head with steel inserts at the tips, 8 oz. weight).

thanks, Eric
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PostIcon Posted on: Sep. 13 2013, 6:08 pm Skip to the previous post in this topic. Skip to the next post in this topic. Ignore posts   QUOTE


(NickHowes @ Sep. 13 2013, 5:08 pm)
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I found the climb pretty easy - YDS class 3 with maybe a bit of class 4.

Wow, that seems fast.  You're quite the animal, huh, Nick. :D

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"Too often I have met men who boast only of how many miles they've traveled and not of what they've seen."  -  Louis L'Amour
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PostIcon Posted on: Sep. 13 2013, 6:18 pm Skip to the previous post in this topic. Skip to the next post in this topic. Ignore posts   QUOTE


(Eric H @ Sep. 13 2013, 3:59 pm)
QUOTE
Did I spot a BD Whippet (ski pole "ice axe") in your hand in the first picture?

If so, any issues with hiking with it? I'm wondering how it compares to hauling a Camp Nanotech ice axe (aluminum head with steel inserts at the tips, 8 oz. weight).

Hi Eric,

That is indeed a BD Whippet (an old version - the newer ones have a few refinements).  I like it and use it all the time in the Beartooths.  I can't say that I notice the extra weight on top of the pole, and I've used it for self-arrest on occasion.

- Nick
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PostIcon Posted on: Sep. 13 2013, 6:23 pm Skip to the previous post in this topic. Skip to the next post in this topic. Ignore posts   QUOTE

Thanks for bringing up the whippet angel Eric.  I noticed it as well.  However, I always thought the whippet was an accessory you could buy separately and attache to an existing BD pole.  Apparently, from the web anyway, you have to buy the pole with attached whippet separately.  Is that the case

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"Too often I have met men who boast only of how many miles they've traveled and not of what they've seen."  -  Louis L'Amour
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PostIcon Posted on: Sep. 13 2013, 6:44 pm Skip to the previous post in this topic. Skip to the next post in this topic. Ignore posts   QUOTE

I've never used a Whippet, but I do have to say, I really prefer an ice axe over trekking poles on very steep terrain, even if I'm not always on snow/ice.

I really like having one hand completely free when scrambling. (I usually skip the poles and have both hands free if self arrest on snow/ice is not in play.) I also like how the ice axe "arrests me" on it's own more often than not, just by driving deeper into the snow if I slip a little or lose my footing or posthole or whatever.

I know that ice axes are relatively heavy, but I've learned generally not to skimp on that weight if I think it might be needed at some point on the trip.

(Besides, they are great for digging cat holes.)
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PostIcon Posted on: Sep. 13 2013, 7:10 pm Skip to the previous post in this topic. Skip to the next post in this topic. Ignore posts   QUOTE

Nick,

Thanks. I figured the weight was minimal, what I was wondering about is if there were any issues with having it always on the pole, "out".

cweston,

Yep, I hear you about bring the axe, there's always some other way to save on weight, and when you want it you want it bad.

That said, I'm thinking of changing my options. I have an older Camp ax, 70 cm (I'm 5' 10"). I'm looking for a lighter weight but also perhaps in a 55 length.

Most years I do a "trail" in the N. Cascades that gets me next to the north end of the Picket Range. Part of that "trail" is a good half dozen deadfalls, where the best choice is tunneling thru, hands and knees and sometimes lower. Almost like caving with branches grabbing the back of your pack.

So a shorter, 55 length ax is on my mind. Also, wondering about the Whippet. All a question of the pluses and minuses when it is not in use balanced against when it is.
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PostIcon Posted on: Sep. 13 2013, 7:37 pm Skip to the previous post in this topic. Skip to the next post in this topic. Ignore posts   QUOTE


(Eric H @ Sep. 13 2013, 5:10 pm)
QUOTE
I was wondering about is if there were any issues with having it always on the pole, "out".

I don't find it to be an issue.  Mine came with a separate insert so that the "axe" head could be taken off, but I never use it.  I'm not sure if the newer models have this option - I suspect they don't.  I did get a tip cover (which are standard on the newer models) because it would occasionally dig into untargeted things :)  Usually when I put it down at camp or during a rest stop.
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PostIcon Posted on: Sep. 13 2013, 7:54 pm Skip to the previous post in this topic. Skip to the next post in this topic. Ignore posts   QUOTE

Thanks Nick, that was exactly my question. hitting "untargeted things"  :D

Over and out. Beautiful evening here in Wisconsin, west shore of Lake Michigan, and need to unplug from the Forums, get out and enjoy it. Just when I was ready to unplug, the Jackson Glacier, climber self rescuing from crevasse fall, pulled me back in.
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PostIcon Posted on: Sep. 14 2013, 9:28 am Skip to the previous post in this topic. Skip to the next post in this topic. Ignore posts   QUOTE

Outstanding Nick. Read your bio and you sound like a very enlightened and interesting fellow.

Philosophically we have much in common, However.......

I am shocked that you don't fly fish!
???

And that you haven't climbed in the Winds, that you mentioned anyway.

Regards always
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 Post Number: 14
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PostIcon Posted on: Sep. 14 2013, 10:10 am Skip to the previous post in this topic. Skip to the next post in this topic. Ignore posts   QUOTE


(tamarac @ Sep. 14 2013, 7:28 am)
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I am shocked that you don't fly fish!
???

And that you haven't climbed in the Winds, that you mentioned anyway.

Yeah, sorry about the fishing, I get that a lot  :D

I've spent time in the Winds, long ago - including climbing Pingora, and a backpacking trip or two.  It's fabulous country, but I now live in the Beartooth foothills and there's a lifetime of exploration to be done here!
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PostIcon Posted on: Sep. 14 2013, 10:18 am Skip to the previous post in this topic. Skip to the next post in this topic. Ignore posts   QUOTE

Oh I didn't know Pingora was in the Winds, my bad.

Have you spoken to swimswithtrout here? He's a climber and a Winds expert. He's also done the Beartooths.

And yes you are right, why waste time traveling if all your needs and desires are right at your doorstep.

Sound wisdom.
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PostIcon Posted on: Sep. 15 2013, 9:29 am Skip to the previous post in this topic. Skip to the next post in this topic. Ignore posts   QUOTE

Great trip report and very nice photos! Last time I was at Aero Lake, it was frozen over.
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PostIcon Posted on: Sep. 15 2013, 11:43 am Skip to the previous post in this topic. Skip to the next post in this topic. Ignore posts   QUOTE

Fantastic report Nick, I thoroughly enjoyed reading it.  I've got to find time to get up to the Beartooths one of these days.
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PostIcon Posted on: Sep. 15 2013, 8:48 pm Skip to the previous post in this topic. Skip to the next post in this topic. Ignore posts   QUOTE

Nice TR Nick. We were there a couple of weeks before you, but we made a right turn at Upper Aero and went over to Rough lake, then down to Oly. And I do like your home page too!
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PostIcon Posted on: Sep. 16 2013, 1:02 pm Skip to the previous post in this topic.  Ignore posts   QUOTE

Nick,

Nice trip report. I've done the route before with minor variations. Looks like all the ice was melted out of the SW couloir. I too agrre that it can be dicey with multiple people going through the couloir. I did it in 2001 and dislodged a bowling ball size rock that went crashing down. My climbing parter was able to take cover. Our thoughts were either stay very far apart or very close. Also, love the route over to Skytop basin. We did it last year in August and the snow almost went to the lake. Made for a very fun glissade. The Lowary Lake descent was interesting. We climbed Granite from the standard route in 97 and then dropped over to Loawry. I saw the headwall you came down. Looked like no fun. Speaking of no fun, that was the long slog through the moraine field. That thing stretched forever. We camped at Lowary and made it all the way down to Echo. We were shot with all the rock hopping. Love the Beartooths.

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